Archives For The ‘Production Tips & Tricks’ Category


By: rbouchez | Posted: Tuesday, February 8th, 2011

microphone close up

Talking head videos all have one thing in common. The most important part of the video is usually the dialogue being picked up by a mic.

There is often a battle between getting great audio for a talking head video, and providing a great LOOKING talking head. But, you CAN have both.

Set up the mic close to the mouth whether it’s a headset mic on a small boom, a wireless mic, or a stand mic. One of the most over rated mics is the lapel mic that most users position by clipping too far away from the mouth because there is a cute little clip on the mic that just screams to be clipped to a lapel, tie or shirt collar. None of these locations provide great audio.

proper microphone placement near mouthThe best location for a mic is in front of the mouth, a few fingers’ widths away. This way, the talent is not required to yell which produces echo. They can talk comfortably in a soft tone which allows for great, natural dynamics. Best case scenario is really a high quality boom mic on a small fixture that suspends the mic in front of the mouth at a fixed distance. This is usually achieved via a headset.

If you don’t have a fancy-schmancy mic boom like on Letterman, make your own. We used part of a mic holder, coat hanger and duct tape to bring the mic very close to the mouth from the bottom up while not being on camera. We also own a couple of directional mics we’ve fastened to ceiling heater vents, ceiling fans, and once actually used a mic boom (that was fun for a change). Directional mics work great as long as the talent is not moving around; thus the talking head application.

Recapping; Make sure the mic is as near to the front of the mouth (where the sound actually comes out) as possible for great, not just good, sound. If you can, do this with an attractive and practical setup using an on camera mic. If not, use something rigged off camera that works just as well.

 The test is that if it sounds clean and close in headphones during the shoot, it will sound the same when your viewers are watching the video on the web, or on that mail out DVD. 

By Stu Marks: Chicago Area Media Designer & video consultant. 

First photo credit to by billaday

Second photo credit by julianrod


By: rbouchez | Posted: Thursday, February 3rd, 2011

Whether in commerce or operating a not-for-profit, you’re still in the business of getting out your important message. Currently, the best way to do this for virtually everyone is via the web video.

Quite often, the best way to get short, important, weekly or daily messages to your target demographic is by using the old fashioned Talking Head Video.

The talking head is probably used more often for two main reasons; 1) It’s the simplest to setup. 2) It‘s completely versatile in its application. It can be humorous or serious, informative or instructive, promotional or sales oriented.

There are several elements that make or break a talking head video. This article is about the background. The background is one of the all-important, stage settings, theme altering elements and is therefore not to be taken lightly or treated like an afterthought. A bad background choice can ruin your efforts of getting out a professional appearing video.

Here are some background types that have proven very successful based on their usage by noted speakers and corporate media outlets.

1)       In the early days of news broadcasts, notably from the BBC, a plain beige, white or black wall behind the talent was common. All though this is very successful in keeping attention on the talent and therefore the content, it can be quite boring and should probably only be used for very short segments. In my opinion, 30 seconds is too long.

2)       Curtain. Simply shoot the talent in front of the closed living room or office curtain or shades.

3)       Projector screen. Angled and lit correctly, a home video projector can be used to shoot anything one desires behind the talent. The versatility of this option is priceless. Also, simply shining colored lights and/or a simple white light with deft use of shadows produces an interesting and professional looking backdrop. Angles are good; and free.

4)       Chroma Key or Green Screen. Paint one wall, or a temporary panel behind the talent the correct color of green (RGB = 0, 255, 0. Or CMYK = 63, 0, 100, 0.), and post production software can insert any image or running video desired. This is a high tech version of the Projector Screen option above. Examples of this method can be seen at www.EZWebPlayer.com.

5)       Long Room. If one watches Broadcast or Cable TV long enough, the Long Room background will be noticed. The long room is a deep background yards deep behind the talent in which ongoing activity is taking place, for real or staged. The Weather Channel uses this during special events as do many networks during telethons and election coverage programs. Care must be taken to make sure that the busy room full of folks working in an office setting are well schooled to ignore the camera, and are far enough in the background as to not be a distraction. Field of focus is a good tool here.

Be creative. Make your own. Whatever looks good without being too distracting, works. Other good choices include book cases, plants, interesting wall covers or paneling.  Or, just pointing the camera at the talent sitting in front of their computer monitors. It can be fun choosing what to show on the monitors while recording.

By Stu Marks: Chicago Area Media Designer & video consultant. 


By: rbouchez | Posted: Thursday, January 27th, 2011

 

PLEASE, FOR THE LOVE OF VIDEO, USE A TRIPOD!

Ok, now that I’ve gotten that out of my system…

Really good tripods are expensive, so if you need to go the inexpensive route, add a little bit of weight to each leg. This will improve your web video dramatically! Remember, it’s not just about keeping your camera still, it’s also important to smooth out your camera movements.

Of course, sand bags aren’t really practical for using on cheap tripods and too much weight will snap the legs right in half. Try velcro-ing ankle weights to the legs - yes the kind you’ll find in an cheesy work out video – and then start saving up for a heavier duty tripod!

Thanks for stopping by!

@richardbouchez, Social Media Specialist for EZWebplayer.com


By: rbouchez | Posted: Friday, January 21st, 2011

Welcome to Location Scouting for your web video part 2: Staying out of trouble on location! If you missed part 1, Finding the Perfect Location, there’s a link at the bottom of this post.

  1. Identify a back-up place to shoot in case of rain!
  2. Ask questions in advance such as…
    1. Do we need permits or special permission to shoot here?
    2. Are there deliveries or other interuptions during the time we plan to shoot?
    3. Can phones be silenced or do customers need to be kep out of the way? (can it be done without disrupting business?)
    4. How early can we set up and long can we stay if we run late?
    5. Are there employees, friends or family of the location that want to be in the video?
    6. Are their any employees that do not want to be on camera?
    7. Are there any places within the location that should not be shot?
  3. Shoot “behind the scenes footage” as you location scout.
    1. It’s easier to do this the first time you are there, you know - when there are no deadlines and crew to worry about!
  4. Look for alternative meeting places nearby & jot them down! Have an emergency “rendezvous point” everyone knows about. There are a pleathera of reasons for this:
    1. Meeting on location isn’t always the best idea, sometimes locations are difficult to find and it’s just easier to direct talent  – for example - to a nearby restaurant.
    2. …or, perhaps, what if you have to pack up and leave a location in a hurry (perhaps the shoot required special permits that weren’t “available” – long story for another day). 
  5. Over estimate the time & space you need!
    1. Tell your hosts you’ll have more equipment, be more disruptive and need more time than you’ll actually take! After the fact, when you prove to be less time & trouble than they thought, you’ll be applauded!

Be sure to share your tips & stories from location shoots in the comments! Please note that every Thursday the EZWebplayer team posts Web Video Quick Tips! Oh, and here’s teh link to part 1: Finding the right location.

Thanks for stopping by!

@richardbouchez, Social Media Specialist for EZWebplayer.com


By: rbouchez | Posted: Thursday, January 13th, 2011

There’s no better way to give your web video a truly local feel than to shoot on site in a great location! The right scene will set the stage and fill in a lot of information for your viewer, information you won’t have to include in your copy, but finding the right location can be a nightmare so here are 5 tips to help you avoid the pain, hassle & “should haves” that come along with shooting on location. Next Thurday come back for part 2: Staying out of trouble on location!

  1. Visit sites during the same time of day or night you plan to shoot.
    1. In many locations you’ll find dramatic differences beetween, let’s say, early & late afternoon… especially around tall buildings, trees and sunrise or sunset hours!
  2. Bring a camera & shoot test shots!
    1. Still or video – doesn’t matter! Outfits can be better coordinated, vendors can be more adequately prepared and you’ll be generally surprised at what a difference reference shots can make, especially if your doing something conceptual in nature.
  3. Try to pre-shoot some b-roll.
    1. You’re already there, take advantage of the time! You might even discover your location doesn’t look very good in video.
  4. Bring a second set of eyes & ears.
    1. Chances are, you’ll be so concerned with the scene you may miss noise or other obstacles someone with another perspective might pick up! Talk about location positives & negatives even if you think they’re obvious.
  5. Bring a “Basic Needs Checklist” and consider each item at the location. Here are some items to start you out:
    1. Parketing
    2. Permits
    3. Lighting
    4. Camera distance
    5. Must have B-roll shots
    6. Props

Be sure to share your tips & stories from location shoots in the comments! Please note that every Thursday the EZWebplayer team posts Web Video Quick Tips! Next Thurday come back for part 2: Staying out of trouble on location!

Thanks for stopping by!

@richardbouchez, Social Media Specialist for EZWebplayer.com


By: rbouchez | Posted: Thursday, January 6th, 2011

obvious microphone shot

A neat trick used by pros when great audio quality is absolutely necessary while still hiding the ugly mic, is to attach the mic to a nearby object. This can be something in the talent’s hand, like a back pack being held up near the chest as it rests on a table, or an object that they are holding like a clipboard. The mic can also be hidden by something next to which the talent is standing, like a tree, wall, car, or another person.

This trick is usually for short dialogues, not a fifteen minute talking head.

By Stu Marks: Chicago Area Media Designer & video consultant. 

Photo by Ayton


By: rbouchez | Posted: Thursday, December 30th, 2010

Lighting for web video. If you can, shoot at sunset!

Lighting Tip. Shoot outdoors during the Golden Hour.

Most pros deliberately shoot footage and stills during the last hour of the sunset in order to take advantage of the unique golden color that the sun picks up as it travels through our atmosphere at that angle of the day. Especially enhancing the human skin tone, this trick is another way to get your footage looking more pro. Use the sun as the key light in your lighting setup. If needed, fill with a white, diffused reflector.

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By Stu Marks: Chicago Area Media Designer & video consultant. 

Photo by nattu


By: rbouchez | Posted: Thursday, December 16th, 2010

 bounce reflector

A common lighting error that novice videographers make is failing to use lighting gear when shooting outdoors. Even under best lighting conditions with direct sun or diffused cloud light, a reflector used at proper distance from the talent fills in harsh shadows while still allowing for the key/fill lighting rule to take place. The best reflector under most straight forward conditions is the white diffused. This provides the same color as the sun. The reflector can be the key or the fill, depending on how it is applied.

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By Stu Marks: Chicago Area Media Designer & video consultant. 

Photo by [martin]


By: rbouchez | Posted: Thursday, December 9th, 2010

Add a Key Light

 

A back light is located above and behind the talent and points down towards the talent’s head and shoulders. This creates a stronger third dimension affect that separates the talent from the background. A barely noticeable area of brightness appears on hair, head and shoulders.

Including the backlight is standard procedure on professional sets like TV news broadcasters and TV Meteorologists. But it is a little known procedure beyond the stage, entertainment and other professional venues. Be careful not to over-light from the back; more is not better.

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By Stu Marks: Chicago Area Media Designer & video consultant. 


By: rbouchez | Posted: Thursday, December 2nd, 2010

Have a difficult shot to record? Simple, just record it many times and pick out the best cut. That’s where the term “cut” came from.

Also, a long dialogue that’s difficult for the talent to remember can be cut into shorter, easy to remember cuts. Each cut should be shot at a different zoom ratio or angle for later editing. This allows the video to flow visually while the talent enjoys the luxury of delivering shorter lines. Remember to record several takes of each cut. Just because it seems like the first take was perfect, doesn’t mean that it was. Later viewing can reveal missed details.

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By Stu Marks: Chicago Area Media Designer & video consultant. 

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Photo by By oaklandEarthGirl


By: rbouchez | Posted: Tuesday, November 23rd, 2010

Before you upload that video to your web site or Flash web player, or chain together your photo collection into a portrait collage which gets uploaded to the web, consider your backgrounds.

When a conventional artist begins, they start with a blank canvas. They build the background they wish for the feature element, one stroke at a time. In this way, the artist has complete control over the background that will frame their feature element.

The videographer or photographer can have from little to no elemental control over what the background may be, so careful study of the available background elements must occur before a successful capture is to take place. One must choose the placement of the camera carefully; it does not happen by accident.

There are basically two types of backgrounds; those which cannot be featured at all, and those which must come into the shot.

ring close up

Great photo - no background needed!

Here is an example of an obvious photo application where no background is ultimately the best way to go. There are several options even in this mundane setting. Simply choose your color background and shoot away. White is often used because it naturally enhances the subject without adding any color tones which may conflict. White is the ultimate neutral. Of course, if you are shooting a white piece of paper, white may not be your best choice. Like the polar bear in a snow storm.

No real expensive or special equipment is necessary to arrive at that classic Ebay hand piece setting. Simply lay down a white, non-reflective cloth and border it with the same vertical pieces on all sides, either more white cloth or white foam cards, leaving a narrow slot through which to shoot. Bounce the flash off of a white card. Looking through the lens at your subject, you have either achieved total white-out, or not.

light box example

Basic Lightbox

Or just buy one of these. $50 at B&HPhotoVideo.com 3

 

But for most other shots; vacation, portrait, sports, informal, party captures, events, weddings, etc, you don’t have the luxury of inserting giant white cards behind everyone and probably wouldn’t want to. The background is part of the shot, so pay attention to it.

Don’t make the mistake of making the background an afterthought, like these folks.

One can always go into PhotoShop and spend several minutes blurring the background like they did at Photo.net for this photo, or whiting it out like I did here. The better option is just shooting the subject in front of a great background, if you have that luxury.

Be on the lookout for good backgrounds when you know you’re going to photograph someone or something. There’s usually nothing wrong with asking someone to move over hear, or nudge to their left a little if you have to.

A great background makes everything even better. Here’s a shot I use a lot for examples of just such occasion.

The inadvertent bad background shows up on vacation a lot. Here’s a small group shot full of those pesky power lines strung from pole to pole. Nothing uglier. 

Other things to look out for are cluttered backgrounds, billboards, and just trashy looking backgrounds. Choose your backgrounds deliberately and you will end up with much better photos.

Here are some more good examples of backgrounds chosen deliberately.

Sometimes there’s just no bad background to be had. This is a good thing

Choosing your field of focus turns any background into a blurred collage of color. Looking through your viewfinder while adjusting your aperture control, step closer or further away from your subject until you achieve just the right amount of blur behind them. Also, on a 35 mm camera, a distance tool short between lens and human subject gives them a rather magnified nose. Avoid this by avoiding the full zoom out on most kit lenses. The full zoom out while being too close to the subject reduces the edges of the photo while enlarging the center of the photo which is usually right where the nose is located.

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By Stu Marks: Chicago Area Media Designer & video consultant.

PHOTO REFERENCES
1
  http://photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00NRdn
2  http://www.webphotoschool.com/all_lessons/jewelry_reflective/Photographing_Rings_the_Easy_Way/index.html
3  http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/606611-REG/Giottos_ST120.html


By: rbouchez | Posted: Thursday, November 18th, 2010

This week the web video tips we’re serving up are a little different…


…in fact, I’m turning today’s tip over to Valsartdiary. It won’t take you long to figure out Val has a very successful YouTube channel, her videos are shot well – though not over produced – and she has a knack for the “clever.” If only more branded videos were just a tenth as interesting!

In this video Val shows us how she shot the silhouette video clip she uses as the signature for her video. Hope you enjoy it!

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By Richard Bouchez: Social Media Specialist for EZWebplayer.com. 

 special effects 

Video Shooting Links worth checking out: 

1.  Your Custom Video Starter—What Type of Camcorder?

2.

3. Web Video Quick Tips #11: Driveway Dolly

 Greycie Loo directs by Elaine with Grey Cats


By: rbouchez | Posted: Tuesday, November 16th, 2010

A major difference in image results between a novice photographer and a pro is something that doesn’t really have much to do with either’s talent, though it is an issue of experience. It is the use of a simple, and for most, affordable piece of equipment; a CP, or Circular Polarizing Filter.

For a 1scientifically technical description of how a CP filter works, you are welcome to do some simple research on the web. This article will avoid the science and illuminate the application.

What does the CP Filter do?

A common application of the CP filter is noticed in photographs and video footage of scenes that include blue sky. With the naked eye, a lot of sunny days seem more hazy than others, presenting a white tinted, or washed out sky. Usually, the white is from sunlight, and Earth reflected sunlight illuminating the haze of moisture and thin white clouds in the otherwise deep blue sky. The polarizing filter realigns the light rays to hide the reflection caused by the sky born haze. Removing the reflection of light off the thin have allows one to see a deeper blue sky. The same type of effect is noticed when wearing polarized sun glasses that remove reflection from the surface of a swimming pool or window reflection, like looking into a car windshield to see who is driving the car. This is one of the reasons so many law enforcement officers wear shades almost all the time. They also look cool.

Polorize Filter 

The polarizing effect has a lot to do with the angle at which the offending light is reflecting off the shiny surface; be it clouds, water or glass. Therefore, polarizing filters don’t always work. For this reason, still photography is a much better candidate for the CP filter than a moving video shot due to the inherent mobility of video and the inherent stillness of—well–still shots.

Because, if one is following the movement of an object with a video camera, the angle of reflected light will undoubtedly change through the video shot, reducing or increasing the effectiveness of the CP filter. This would cause the effect of the sky going from deep blue to hazy white and back again, or vice versa; certainly a distracting effect. On an outdoor, daylight shot, if the camera is locked in place on the tripod so that it cannot pan or tilt, the CP filter can work wonders if used at the correct angle to the sun for a limited time.

But, in still photography there is no changing of the light angle at time of firing. The angle is fixed due to the nature of “still” photography as opposed to moving video. Thus the effectiveness of the CP filter in still over video.

I use the CP filter for almost all outdoor shooting still shooting and even some indoor.

Why use the CP Filter?

The CP filter is known to produce richer color, better flesh tone and better texture in some cases, due to the removal of offending reflected light. Deeper blue sky and darker, richer green grass are two of the more common noticeable effects. The same effects can be enjoyed without the filter, but only on days when there is extremely low humidity. The sky will be almost as deep blue as with the filter but, the grass won’t be as dark and rich, and other effects won’t follow suit either; like glare off water, in windows and the shiny faces will still be there.

Example of using a CP filter at the proper angle. sky no polorize filterNotice the deep blue color of the sky and the rich color of the greens and reds. The filter has removed most of the water reflectiveness of this shot from sky and Earthbound objects like grass, trees and fallen leaves.

Now, I’ve turned the camera about 100 degrees to my left away from the first shot’s angle, towards the sun.

No adjusting the CP filter at this angle can remove any refectiveness at all. The sky is white and washed out as are many of the colors on trees. Obviously, shooting with the sun at the wrong angle removes likelihood of good color capture anyway. Like our eyes, the camera needs to receive reflected light of true color. The CP filter simply removes glare, or white light that reflects off of surfaces and sky bound water vapor (clouds) when used at the correct angles.sky through polarize filter

A more vibrant photo is what you get when properly using this filter. It should always be handy. I have one for each of my lenses. I am just getting ready to purchase my second working camera, probably another Canon, and I will make sure to pick up two more CPs for its kit as well. There are many events I cover where I need two working and live cameras hanging on my neck. Switching out lenses and filters is not an option during these times. So, I need to have the filters on the lenses, and the lenses on the cameras ready to shoot all the time.

When not to use the CP Filter

Because the filter reduces the amount of light in the light path, there are a few applications where I will remove the lens. All portrait photography I usually start without it. I have noticed that some people sweat more than others and the CP filter will often reduce a generous portion of the reflected light from the shiny face. But, this also changes other elements’ appearance as well, so my application in this environment is limited. Backgrounds change with a reduction of light, so if I am going to need the CP filter, I make sure I conduct the entire shoot with the filter on. This keeps the background consistent.

Why use filters at all when I can just PhotoShop it later?

In case you don’t already know this, PhotoShopping is not the miracle cure for everything. PhotoShop can’t fix bad focus, over exposure, under exposure or put texture back into something that the camera and its operator failed to capture. PhotoShop can certainly minimize errors and maximize assets, but only a correct capture at the event produces truly stunning photos and video. The CP filter helps that to happen.

Best and most common application of the CP filter. How to.

The sky is the easiest to notice when shooting with a CP filter. After mounting the filter on your lens, put the sun off of your left or right shoulder, then point the camera up into the blue sky. Zoom back so you can have an obvious point of reference on the horizon. Let the focus set where ever you want; makes no difference to the filter. While viewing through your SLR viewfinder glass, turn the outside ring of the CP filter so that it turns around either way, clockwise or counter clockwise. You’ll notice that the tone of the blue sky changes from light to dark or vice versa. There is no written scientific rule on where to set the filter at this point, but I always go for the darker blue. This is where the filter is doing more of its reflective nulling work. Once you have the sky looking its darkest, slowly change your angle in reference to the sun by turning your body left or right while still looking at the sky through the viewfinder. Notice that the sky’s tone changes just as if you were still turning the filter. In this fashion you can quickly learn the best angle to setup for great looking shots using your filter.

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By Stu Marks: Chicago Area Media Designer & video consultant.

1                      http://www.ehow.com/how-does_5402629_circular-polarizing-filter-works.html
                http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photographic_filter


By: rbouchez | Posted: Thursday, November 11th, 2010

The minivan is a video production tool.

Amazing Dolly Shots for your web videos are as Close as Your Driveway!

Cool follow shots where a couple is walking down a side walk conversing,  usually captured in Hollywood style by using the expensive dolly track system, can be accomplished with a minivan that has sliding side doors. The camera operator sits on the seat nearest the back door which is open, or sits cross legged on the floor if the camera is too tall for a shoulder from the seat, or (my favorite) the camera is setup on a sturdy tripod on the floor after the seat has been removed. Many minivans have quick release seats like the Ford Aerostar.

I used this method for several low budget productions for a nonprofit group starring one of the former Marlboro Cowboys who had quit smoking. A wireless mic (which we used) will work just fine plugged into a converter in the vehicle, or use a shotgun mic on a boom operated by a crew member walking along side the van. It takes a few practice runs, but as soon as the driver gets the hang of dragging the brakes gently, this produces a wonderful moving platform from which to shoot. Remember to shoot dialogue far enough away to inhibit engine and tire noise from the mobile platform.

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By Stu Marks: Chicago Area Media Designer & video consultant.

special effects

Video Shooting Links worth checking out:

1. 

 2. Ten Tips to Better VideoShooting Good Video – CamcorderInfo.com

3.  8 Ways to Shoot Video Like a Pro

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Flickr Photos credits:

Gutbrod Van by Hugo90

Greycie Loo directs by Elaine with Grey Cats